Martelli Europe is one of the most reputed washing laundries around the world and brings out specialized washes at various times. The company is highly focused on contributing to new developments which result in environment friendly techniques . I spoke to the Managing Director of Martelli Europe – Mr. Mauro Angelini – regarding the same and he was quite emphatic on the contribution  of new  vintage wash developments which may help to reduce CO2 emissions and contribute in other ways to make them more environmentally sustainable compared to traditional washes..

What are the new developments that Martelli is presenting currently ?

We are currently working on several research levels. There is what we do for our customers and there is what we do for us not to "flatten". In this case we are studying the washing more environmentally sustainable in the sense that it involves a lower CO2 emissions, because they use less energy. It is not a simple process, we are working primarily with suppliers of chemicals like Garmon, in order to reduce CO2 emissions with washes and finishes using cold temperatures. Then, as always, we work hard to offer our "vintage effect" which is always greatly appreciated by all customers. Regarding dyeing even here we are from several years an avant-garde cold-dye.

Many brands and retailers have banned sandblasting. What are the new technologies that are being used for achieving similar results ? Are these technologies viable ?

Regarding sandblasting there is to say that in Martelli Europe we have always managed to propose the same or almost the same effect, without recourse to sandblasting. We are aware of the dangers which involves blasting , also we have to say, it is greatly reduced in new sealed implants the risks for operators. However, our thinking is that every process under high pressure produces dust, this sooner or later go airborne and is filled by someone. I do not think there is a powder that protects worker health, on the contrary, there are dusts that cause silicosis and others that cause asthma and other problems. I wonder if you simply replace the sand with vegetable or metallic abrasives, powder in the air remains. Similarly, using type solutions of carbon dioxide ice, certainly don’t help the environment and costs that do not believe customers want to endure. We go forward on our way, trying to use the technologies we have available. Customers appreciate our approach.

I hear that you are implementing the SA 8000. Can you tell us more about the same ?

It is true Sandeep and thanks for the question, we’re starting with the SA8000 which is the last after the ISO14001 ISO 9001 the OHSAS18001 we already have with the UKAS. Even here we are following with consistency in the way of quality, total quality. North European customers especially appreciate the fact that we have certifications, with SA8000, some multinational companies can forgo to make the social audit direct, as there has been announced by one of these. We are a company who has care of environmental issues but also of its employees.

How is the denim market in terms of washing requirements? Do you see any difference in the current market  requirements compared to last year ?

There is a growing trend to ask three-dimensional finishings (3D) with resins, then there is always required the vintage effect is probably our strength. As regards fabrics, in the summer collections all customers have a model with cotton stripes fabric.

Are the brands trying to save on washing to reduce the cost of their garments keeping in view the increased cotton prices ?

It was as a rule attempt to reduce costs with suppliers. Some young or inexperienced buyers sometimes tends to overdo it and it is how to cut the branch where you’re sitting. Now this trend it is slowly disappearing, the world is changed a little. The relationship with suppliers today it is not only “cost-money” it should be strategic in terms of partnership. The most experienced buyers and sourcing managers, remember that we (all supply chain)are clothing fashion industry. We cannot copy the speculative and short-sighted attitude of certain finance, particularly now after we’ve seen disasters that brought us the crisis of 2008. Today in clothing from fabric to the laundry, we see many closures and few openings, I don’t  think it is still the case to cut costs.

Here are some details on the vintage washes that Martelli is presenting :

SOYLENT GREEN – ECO

 

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC: SW STONE WASH + COLD DYEING = ECOLOGICAL TREATEMENT DUE TO THE TEMPERATURE SAVING:
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH ALSO REPRESENTS A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* BY USING COLD DYEING IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH ALSO REPRESENTS A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR

CROCKER – ECO

Wash Details :

KURABO FABRIC: SW STONE WASH + COLD DYEING + WORN EFFECTS MADE 100% MANUAL = ECOLOGICAL TREATEMENT DUE TO THE TEMPERATURE SAVING:
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* BY USING COLD DYEING IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR

KOJAK –ECO

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC: ECOLOGICAL VINTAGE GAINED THROUGHT AMPLE WATER AND TEMPERATURE SAVINGS = 3D EFFECT (3D EVOLUTION) + MULTIPLE MANUAL WORN EFFECTS + COLD STONE WASH :
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* BY COMBINING COLD STONE WASH WITH NEUTRALIZING IT RESULTS A SAVING OF APPROXIMATELY 16L OF WATER / UNIT
* BY USING RESINS WHICH POLYMERIZE AT 90° C INSTEAD OF 140 ° C, IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* THIS TYPE OF RESINS DOES NOT CONTAIN FORMALDEHYDE

DET STAVROS

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC: SW STONE WASH + MULTIPLE WORN EFFECTS / COLOUR MADE 100% MANUAL:
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APROXIMATELLY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR

RIZZO

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC – AN OLDER TYPE OF TREATEMENT MEANING DRY DECOLORATION, BUT COMBINED WITH NEW PROCEDURES SUCH AS 3D EFFECTS CAN GENERATE INTERESTING RESULTS, MAINLY WASHINGS WITH A MORE AGGRESSIVE VISUAL IMPACT
** THIS TYPE OF PROCESS ALSO HAS AN ECOLOGICAL ASPECT DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT REDUCES THE WATER CONSUMPTION WITH APPROXIMATELY 16 L / UNIT, UNLIKE A DECOLORATION MADE WITH A NORMAL WASHING MACHINE.

You can just watch all these presentations in a slideshow below :

Also, here is a cool video from Martelli showing some of their vintage wash processes .

Want to contact Mr Mauro Angelini ? Email here